Festa della Madonna della Salute: a votive bridge, a cathedral, candles, prayer and delicious mutton soup

A view of the Chiesa della Madonna della Salute from the votive bridge

Yesterday, November 21st, I joined thousands of others who participated in the annual Festa della Madonna della Salute and paid tribute to this most Venetian tradition. A commemoration dating back to 1630 when the Venetians prayed for an end to the Bubonic plague and Nicolò Contarini, Doge of the Republic of Venice, promised that if their prayers were answered he would have a worthy cathedral built. Apparently, mere weeks later their prayers were answered when the spread of the epidemic slowed down, and then ceased a year later. The government kept their word, and contracted Architect Baldassarre Longhena to build the Basilica della Madonna della Salute--the Church of Holy (Saint) Mary of Health, known to be one of the best expressions of Venetian Baroque architecture.

A small section of the many candles lit.

Beginning early in the morning and continuing until late at night, a constant flow of people cross the temporary votive bridge that reaches across the Grand Canal from Campo Santa Maria del Giglio to Calle Lanza and leads them steps away from the church. Candle stands are spread out in the nearby campo and along the waterfront. Thousands of candles, it seems, are purchased and then handed to church volunteers to be lit, one by one. The crowd of worshipers is so thick that it would be impossible for each visitor to light their own. 

Holy masses are continuously held throughout the day and evening. Many come to listen and pray, while others come to admire the extraordinary architecture and be part of this special experience. 

Looking up at the church's main entrance

Outside, the crowd slowly moves through the Dorsoduro neighborhood where the air smells as sweet as the cotton candy, caramel apples, Nutella crepes and cream filled pastry sold from white tented stands; confirming that this is also a festive occasion.

Street festival-Madonna della Salute

Bewitched Apples

La Castradina

However, no celebration of the Madonna della Salute is complete without a warm bowl or plate of Castradina. I’ve been told, and I've read, that this tradition is a tribute to the loyalty shown by the Dalmatians to the Venetian Republic during the very long period when, because of the plague, Venice was isolated from the rest of the world. The Dalmatians were the only ones who supplied the residents with food. And they supplied them with what was on hand: mutton and cabbage. Therefore, the Venetians ate little more than castradina during those eighteen months of the plague. So, to remember those difficult times, Venetians have maintained the tradition of eating castradina during the Salute festivities. I enjoyed mine at a bustling trattoria our family has frequented for generations: Trattoria Alla Rivetta. Mario, the chef, exceeded my expectations. Buonissima!

You might add Procida Island to your travel destination list

Marina Corricella at sunset

Procida, a small island forty minutes by motorboat off the coast of Naples, Italy, is a place many visitors to the Amalfi Coast have never heard of. That's probably the reason it's held onto its authentic feel and has attracted filmmakers for decades. 

Capable of welcoming guests with its delicious fresh-seafood restaurants, quaint and colorful marinas, narrow volcanic-sand beaches and moderate but comfortable hotels and B&B's, it's the island I favor over Capri and Ischia. 

I fell hard for Procida. So much so, that I hesitated before sharing my photos here with you all. But how selfish of me would that have been to keep this to myself? Of course, Procida fills up in the high tourist season, but if you're fortunate to visit in the spring or autumn you'll have the place, almost, to yourself.

I hope in the years to come tourism will permit this island to maintain it's calm, quiet authenticity. The locals I spoke to said that was their intention. And I hope you enjoy and appreciate the beauty of this special island, as I saw it in early October, enough to think about making your slow-down, take-your-time and get-away-from-it-all vacation there, too.

 

Buona visione!

Il male minore: un porto turistico offshore per Venezia o scavare la laguna ancor di più?

Bacino San Marco-settembre 2013

Le grandi navi da turismo portano centinaia di migliaia di turisti a Venezia ogni anno, i quali, in cambio, contribuiscono all’economia locale e nazionale sostenendo, in parte, i lavori nell’ambito del turismo. Ad ogni modo, come Gulliver che pesta Lilliput, questi enormi grattacieli su acqua navigano attraverso la laguna veneziana e il fragile centro storico—il bacino di San Marco e il Canale della Giudecca—lasciando le loro impronte.  Dopo la tragica vicenda che ha coinvolto la Costa Concordia, nella quale hanno perso la vita trentadue persone sulla costa toscana nel gennaio del 2012, pochi sarebbero in disaccordo nel dire che le grandi navi sono una minaccia per la salute di Venezia—una città che rischia il suo status di U.N.E.S.C.O. World Heritage site e che troppo spesso viene trattata come un’attrazione turistica e non il raro gioiello che è.

 Il mese scorso, il Comitato Interministeriale per la salvaguardia di Venezia e della Laguna si è riunito a Roma. Tutti i membri hanno votato a favore del blocco delle navi che superano 40,000 tonnellate al bacino San Marco. Solo il comune di Mira—i cui confini includono una bella fetta della laguna veneziana—ha votato contro la soluzione favorita dal comitato, che dirotterebbe le grandi navi da crociera attraverso la Canale Sant’Angelo—Contorta; un canale stretto, poco profondo e naturale (largo circa 30 metri al punto massimo) che vira dal più grande Canale dei Petroli, utilizzato dalle navi industriali per entrare nella Porto di Marghera e nella direzione dell’esistente porto turistico di Venezia. La proposta del progetto Canale Sant’Angelo-Contorta stima che ci vogliano diciotto mesi per implementare i lavori necessari per estenderlo, allargarlo, ed approfondirlo prima che possa essere pronto per il traffico delle navi da crociera. Gli amministratori di Mira, assieme a movimenti locali e frequentatori abituali della laguna, credono che scavando e prolungando questo canale verrebbero causati danni irreparabili e gravi conseguenze ambientali alla laguna e alle sue aree periferiche. I giornali riportano che questo progetto è stato inviato alla Valutazione di Impatto Ambientale, mentre anche altri progetti sono sotto valutazione.

 Uno di questi progetti, Porto Novissimo di Lido, è stato proposto dal Comune di Mira e sviluppato da Luciano Claut, architetto e Assessore all’urbanistica per il Comune. La proposta prevede un molo galleggiante di 600 metri, costruito offshore all’ingresso della laguna, che verrebbe costruito con moduli collegati da cerniere e ancorati al fondo. All’inizio, questo porto galleggiante potrebbe accogliere quattro grandi navi da crociera e sarebbe autonomo. Una volta completata la costruzione del M.O.S.E.—le barriere contro l’alta marea—il molo galleggiante verrebbe integrato con l’isola del M.O.S.E. per formare un porto pienamente funzionante. La prima fase del progetto dice sia eco-compatibile, a basso costo e potrebbe essere pronto e operativo in poco tempo.

 Sembra interessante, ho pensato mentre ascoltavo gli amministratori del comune di Mira, dopo che mi avevano contattata e chiesto se ero disposta a scrivere un articolo sul mio blog sul loro progetto—per spargere la voce in inglese. Mi hanno spiegato che il molo galleggiante e l’isola del M.O.S.E. verrebbero usati come punto di rifornimento e punto di dogana per le navi. Cibo, carburante, approvvigionamenti, bagagli e reflui verrebbero trasferiti da e alle navi attraverso trasporto merci mentre ormeggiate offshore, ed ogni anno migliaia di crocieristi verrebbero trasportati via barca da e per il centro storico, la stazione della ferrovia e l’aeroporto di Venezia.

 A quel punto le immagini del motondoso sono apparse nella mia mente e la parola continuava a tornarmi sulle labbra.

 Motondoso (moto ondoso) è il termine usato dai locali per descrivere il danno perpetrato dalle onde che lacerano le fragili fondamenta di Venezia, principalmente causate da barche a motore che eccedono il limite di velocità.

 E’ facile capire che un porto offshore aumenterebbe l’uso e il traffico di barche a motore, ferryboats, vaporetti, taxi acquei, gran turismo, trasporto merci, carburanti e reflui. Riuscite ad immaginare quale minaccia potrebbe essere per Venezia, e la laguna, un possibile versamento di reflui e/o carburanti durante il trasporto dal porto offshore alla terraferma?  In una città dove è difficile trovare polizia locale per controllare il già pesante traffico acqueo e rallentare le barche a motore, un porto offshore non moltiplicherebbe i problemi e i rischi che Venezia sta provando a risolvere?

Non sono un ingegnere o un architetto o un amministratore locale ma, come qualsiasi persona che abbia passato del tempo a Venezia, capisco i problemi del traffico acqueo e delle grandi navi che sovrastano la città. Come altri che tengono alla salute di Venezia sono contenta che il governo si stia finalmente muovendo per trovare una soluzione reale a questo problema.

La mia unica speranza è che, viste queste scelte—che definisco il male minore—non facciamo più male che bene a Venezia.

Cosa ne pensate?

The lesser of two evils: An offshore touristic port for Venice or more canal digging?

St. Mark's Basin-September 2013

Cruise ships bring hundreds of thousands of tourists to Venice each year who, in turn, contribute to the local and national economy by sustaining, in part, tourist related jobs. However, like Gulliver stepping through Lilliput, these gigantic floating skyscrapers sail through the Venetian lagoon and the fragile historical center—St. Mark’s Basin and the Giudecca Canal—and leave their footprints, too. Two years after the Costa Concordia fiasco, which tragically took 32 lives off the Tuscan coast in January 2012, few people would disagree that large cruise ships threaten the health of Venice—a city which risks its U.N.E.S.C.O. Heritage site status, and is too often treated like a tourist attraction instead of a rare jewel.  

Last month, the Italian Interministerial Committee to Safeguard Venice and the Lagoon met in Rome. All members voted in favor of prohibiting ships weighing more than 40,000 tons from passing through the St. Mark’s Basin.  Yet, only the city of Mira—whose city limits include a good slice of the Venetian lagoon—voted against the committee’s favored solution which would redirect large cruise ships through the Canale Contorta-Sant’Angelo; a natural narrow and shallow canal (more or less 30 meters at its widest point) which veers off of the larger Canale dei Petroli used by industrial ships to enter the Port of Marghera, and in the direction of Venice's existing touristic port. The proposed Contorta-Sant’Angelo project estimates that it would take 18 months to implement work needed to extend, widen and deepen the canal before it could be ready for cruise ship traffic. The city of Mira administrators, along with many grassroots groups and lagoon habitué, believe that digging and extending this canal would cause irreparable damage and environmental consequences to the lagoon and its surrounding areas. It’s been reported that an environmental impact study is being done on this project, while other projects are being reviewed, too.

One of those projects, Porto Novissimo di Lido, was presented by the city of Mira and developed by Luciano Claut, architect and Assessor of Urban development for the city. The proposal calls for a 600 meter floating jetty to be built offshore at the entrance to the lagoon. It would be made up of modules connected by hinges and fixed by simple anchors to the bottom of the sea. In the beginning, this floating port could accommodate four large cruise ships and would be self-reliant. Once the construction of the M.O.S.E. high-tide water gates is completed the floating jetty would be integrated with the island of M.O.S.E. to form a full functioning port. The first step of this project is said to be eco-compatible, low cost and could be up and running in little time.

Sounds interesting, I thought as I listened to the city of Mira administrators who had contacted me and asked me if I would write about their project on my blog—to get the word out in English. They explained that the floating jetty and the M.O.S.E. island port would be used as a customs point and refurbishing spot for the ships. Food, fuel, supplies, luggage and waste would be transferred to and from cargo boats to the cruise ships while offshore, and thousands of cruise passengers each year would be transported by boat to and from Venice’s historic center, the train station, and the Venice airport.

That’s when I removed my rose colored glasses, and the word motondoso kept coming to my lips.

Motondoso is the local term used to describe the damaging waves that claw away Venice’s fragile foundation, and are principally caused by speeding motor boats.

It’s easy to understand that an offshore port would increase the use of and traffic by motorboats, ferryboats, vaporetti, water taxis, group tour boats, cargo boats, boats carrying fuel and waste. Can you imagine the spillage threat waste and fuel being transported from the offshore port to the mainland would bring to Venice and the lagoon? In a city where it’s hard to find local police to patrol the already heavy water traffic and slow motorboats down, wouldn’t an offshore port multiple the problems and risks Venice is trying to resolve?

I’m not an engineer or an architect or a city administrator but, like anyone who has spent time in Venice, I do understand the water traffic and cruise ship problems facing Venice. And, like others who have Venice’s well-being at heart, I'm pleased that the government is, at last, taking steps to find a real solution to this problem. 

My only hope is that, given these male minore or lesser of evils choices, we don’t harm Venice more than help her.

What are your thoughts?

My guest blog post on InsidersAbroad.com: #UNLOCKYOURLOVE-Venetians taking their city’s problems into their own hands

#unlockyourlove logo by Alberto Toso Fei

After one of the most trying tourist seasons today’s generations of Venetians can remember, a grassroots group—tired of visitors using the city of Venice, Italy, like a beach, a picnic area or more crassly as an outdoor toilet. Yes this is happening in Venice, too—is saying basta! Enough of the abuse their spectacular town, a U.N.E.S.C.O. World Heritage site, has been forced to succumb to....

Please continue reading my blog post here on Insiders Abroad:

http://www.insidersabroad.com/italy/blogs/tourist-blog/posts/venetians-taking-their-citys-problems-into-their-own-hands  

Thank You, Insiders Abroad for asking me to share this story with you and your readers. 

Venice, not her tourists, is crying out loud!

The Rialto Bridge

Because of a recent article in The Telegraph: Outcry over plan to charge Venice day trippers...I'm climbing onto my soapbox: 

Tourism in Venice has drastically changed in the last 10 or so years. Too many, but not all, come, think it's a beach, walk around shirtless, wearing flip flops and in bathing suits, swim in the canals, climb on historic builidings that are hundreds of years old--all in a city where not long ago travelers knew when in Venice wearing short pants wasn't/isn't acceptable. 

Today, visitors pack a lunch as if they're going to a park, sit on centuries old steps in the Piazza known as the 'finest drawing room in Europe' and eat their meals without realizing where they are or what they're looking at, and then leave little behind except their trash. This is the reality. 

So, as a resident of Venice province for almost 30 years, where my family's livelihood has depended on tourism for three generations, I agree something must be done to save Venice. 

If today's tourists don't understand that this city is a VERY special place, and they continue to treat it like another notch on their 'been there done that' post, then the city must do something to either educate the masses (which in today's society is probably impossible) or keep out those who don't know how to respect and acknowledge Venice as one of if not THE most beautiful, fragile and precious cities on the planet. 

I'm sorry, but it is evident that anyone who doesn't understand why paying to enter the city is being discussed as a possible option hasn't spent more than a day or two in Venice in the last few years. And if they have, and still don't understand the problem, perhaps they are guilty of some of the insulting behavior the Venetians are tired of seeing their city be abused by.

Have you been to Venice recently? Do you agree with my comments or do you think it's okay to ignore decorum in this treasured city, and 'disrespect' the Jewel of the Adriatic? 

I'd like to hear your thoughts, too. 

You can find the Telegraph article here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/italy/11032231/Outcry-over-plan-to-charge-Venice-day-trippers.html

Eating Pizza New York City Mayor Bill De Blasio's way...with a fork.

My favorite pizza: Cream of artichoke with artichokes and buffalo mozzarella cheese

NYC Mayor Bill De Blasio

Recently, I had the honor of spending an evening with New York City Mayor Bill De Blasio and his charming family during their stay in Venice, Italy. We talked about many things: his city and ours, his proud Italian-American heritage and the joy he and his family felt visiting and being so warmly welcomed to Italy. When I permitted myself to make a light hearted comment about eating pizza with a fork, he gave me a warm smile and, like any good Italian, gently threw up his hands.

Some readers here may not know that since Mayor De Blasio was elected to office last November magazines and newspapers, including the New York Times, have mocked and criticized him for eating pizza with a fork. In the NYTimes article one person went as far as to call eating pizza with a fork “blasphemy” and stated that the Mayor “doesn’t know any better”. (See link to that article below)

For the record, Mayor De Blasio is unaware that our brief, pleasant exchange about pizza encouraged me to write this post.

So, here goes. My question to those who find it difficult to accept the Mayor’s way of eating pizza is: What’s all the fuss about?

You see, the Mayor does know better, and he’s right. When eating pizza IN ITALY—where the word pizza is said to have first appeared in Latin in 997 A.D. in the town of Gaeta near Naples—one uses a fork and, blasphemy of all blasphemies, a knife.

Now, I understand your concerns. I grew up in Los Angeles and spent my childhood summer vacations in the heart of Philadelphia. I remember back in the 60s holding my fast-walking grandfather’s hand on our summer shopping trips to 69^th Street where a steam billowing pizza stand sat on the corner—or at least near the public bus stop. Twenty-five cent pizza slices sold out the window on a gritty busy city street were a novelty for this then young suburban Southern Californian. Of course I’d eaten pizza with my hands in Los Angeles, but I’d never eaten it standing on a street corner. Served on a square of paper, those cheese-dripping triangles were the best pizza slices I’d ever sunk my teeth into—until I moved to Italy in the 1980s.

What I quickly learned about eating pizza in Italy is that, in the Bel Paese, it’s rarely served sliced. Instead, it’s served whole on a big round ceramic platter and, therefore, must be eaten with a knife and a fork. Also, when eating pizza in Italy—and in recent years in some pizzerias around the U.S.A.—you order your own individual whole pizza, and choose your favorite topping, too. You won’t find pineapple on pizza in Italy, but believe it or not, a favorite pizza among Italian children is Pizza Patatina—cheese and tomato sauce topped with French fries. (You can imagine the expression on my face when fifteen or so years ago a slightly rude and uninformed young waiter in a pizzeria in Pennsylvania told my Italian born, and then six-year old, daughter that if she wanted French fries on her pizza she’d have to go down the street to McDonald’s) In any event, my favorite pizza is a pizza bianca—no tomato sauce—cream of artichoke with marinated artichoke hearts plus buffalo mozzarella, with KAMUT flour crust. Deliziosa!

Eating an entire pizza might sound like a gastronomical task, but pizza and their crusts in Italy are normally lighter than traditional pizzas in the U.S., and making them is an art form.  Whether you’re in New York City, Venice or Naples, a pizzeria is only as good as its pizzaiolo and its oven—preferably wood burning—and the best pizzaioli in Italy are known for preparing their crust thin and crisp.

So, my pizza loving friends, don’t you think it’s time to give Mayor De Blasio a break and lay this how pizza should be eaten conversation to rest? He’s simply eating pizza the traditional Italian way. Whether your pizza is served sliced or whole you, too, might try using a fork and a knife next time. And if it doesn’t seem quite right, no problem, use your hands.

Buon appetito!   

New York Times article January 10,2014: A Fork? De Blasio’s Way of Eating Pizza Is Mocked http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/11/nyregion/de-blasio-skewered-for-eating-pizza-with-utensils.html?_r=0

Laundry Day at the Home of a Gondolier...

Honestly, when I posted this photo on my personal Facebook page two days ago I had no idea how many smiles and shares it would bring. So, I thought I'd share the snapshot I took  of my clothesline here, too. I hope it brings a smile to your face, too. 

Feel free to leave a comment below, share this link with your friends, and LIKE Italy to Los Angeles and Back on Facebook, too.  

A presto,

Marie Ohanesian Nardin 

Summer Laundry at "Ca'Nardin"...my house

Venice's Gondoliers Row for Research

Regata dei Traghetti for the Fondazione Umberto Veronesi

 Criticism has been laid on the gondoliers' strong broad shoulders as far back as when they began rowing down Venice's beautiful canals. Comments which are often heard spoken in dialect by fellow Venetians—their most ardent critics or printed in the local press and more recently on social networks. Now, with the variety of instant communication sources, it’s no surprise that when a gondolier makes an error the world takes notice, too. Granted some critical comments have been warranted, others not so much and most are brought on by a minority of the 400-plus strong category. However, as with any group that works in the public eye, it is

Getting ready  

quite difficult for the majority of the gondoliers who abide by the rules to escape judgment based upon the actions of a few. Therefore, I think when all 400-plus gondoliers make a grand, generous and straight from the heart gesture that it is only right and proper to commend and applaud them.

Last Friday, April 25, 2014, the Association of Gondoliers dedicated their annual Regata dei Traghetti (a regatta between the 10 gondola stations) to the Fondazione Umberto Veronesi, a prominent and effective non-profit medical research foundation in Italy.

Not only did the gondoliers compete while wearing a striped t-shirt with the words Io Vogo per la Ricerca—I Row for Research—they pledged €30.000 (approx. $42,000) to fund the foundation’s “Gold for Kids” project. A first! Because in the ten years since 

Foundation supporters follow the regatta

the foundation began raising funds for cancer research, this is the first time one group has made such a large lump-sum contribution. It may also be the first contribution to go towards the foundation’s new “Gold for Kids” project which supports the most innovative pediatric oncology therapies and medical treatment available to children being cared for in hospitals throughout Italy.

The first place winners: Traghetto Molo/San Marco

The relationship between the Fondazione Umberto Veronesi, one of Italy’s most respected non-profit organizations, and the Gondoliers, the symbol of one of Italy’s most beloved cities, brings an exemplary initiative to life. A noble gesture that comes from the hearts of what I personally consider to be a noble group of people—a gesture that I hope might serve as an example for other associations, groups and individuals to follow.

Un grande grazie di cuore ai gondolieri di Venezia!

https://www.facebook.com/fondazione.veronesi or www.fondazioneumbertoveronesi.com   

Pharrell Williams' Happy has made it to Venice!

Italy to Los Angeles and Back 

thought this might bring a smile to all who love Venice! 

Pharrell Williams' Happy 

Danced to in Venice!

Thanks to:

HostelsClub 

Happy in Venice Video

Watch it here!

A glimpse of Carnevale Venice 2014



Masks-Carnevale 2014
Traghetto Molo, San Marco

Carnevale, for many who live in or around Venice, is a time when you either stay away from St. Mark's square and the crowds that fill the city's only piazza or you wait to view the marvelous costumes and masks on an 'off day'. 

This year the festivities officially opened on Sunday February 23rd with the traditional Volo dell’angelo or Flight of the Angel. It was reported that 105,000 people attended. I, intentionally, was not one of them.

A beautiful mask, Venice 2014

The origins of the Angel, interpreted in the 1500s by a Turkish acrobat and known then as the Svolo del Turco, now stars a selected damsel dressed in costume who, securely belted to a robust pulley, slowly descends from the ledge of the bell tower, over the crowd, and into the welcome arms of the honorary Doge awaiting her on stage at the far end of the square. Over the centuries the Flight of the Turk became known as the Flight of the Angel, until a tragic accident in the mid-1700s caused the human Angel to be replaced by a Colombina (dove) carved from wood. La Colombina remained the opening Carnevale attraction until recent years. In fact, the first few Volos I attended in the late 1980s, and if my memory is correct into the 1990s, were indeed la Colombina. Many Venetians still refer to the opening Carnevale ceremony as il Volo della Colombina. However, some years ago, thanks to modern day safety techniques, the more exciting descent of a ‘real’ Angelo has, once again, returned. 

Court Jester

However, as I stated, I stayed away and instead chose, as I've done for more years than I can remember, to take a walk through Venice's back alleyways on Monday, a quieter Carnevale day. Of course, I ended up in St. Mark's square-- which around our home is also known as my husband's office. 

While waiting for my dear husband to mettere la barca da notte (put the gondola away for the night), I snapped these photos. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. 

My favorite this year. 

10 random things Italy has taught this native Southern Californian...

Today marks 27 years since I left Los Angeles and moved to Venice, Italy—a lot of changes have occurred in my life, on the inside and out. So, just for fun, I’d like to share a few of the random things Italy has taught this native Southern Californian:



Piazzetta San Marco, Venice

1. Walk or take public transportation. They’re easy options that help your wallet, waistline and the environment.
2. Unless there’s a deadline, it’s okay if you leave it for tomorrow.
3. Traditional Italian lasagna is made with besciamella cream sauce and lots of Parmigiano cheese, not mozzarella.
4. Neighborhood clock towers and church bells are great time telling instruments.
5. As an alternative, a scoop of fresh gelato makes a healthy summertime meal.
6. No other country designs and makes shoes, handbags or clothes like Italy. No, not even France!
7. Stop an average Italian on the street and he or she will probably know more about the world’s current events than an average U.S. citizen—even when it comes to U.S. foreign affairs.
8. Wine or water, and sometimes beer, are the only beverages that should be consumed with food.
9. National Healthcare works well for everyone.
10. No matter how trying the economy, how disorganized the government, Italians resiliently move forward and, somehow, make life work.