Thursday, October 27, 2011

Can we help The Cinque Terre and Lunigiana Get Back Up on their Feet?

Vernazza as it was April 2011
As many of you have already read the Cinque Terre in Liguria and the Lunigiana area which extends into Tuscany were struck with exceptionally heavy rain and devastating mudslides early Wednesday morning. The images of mudslides sweeping away cars, boats, homes, shops and restaurants in the quaint town of Vernazza conjure up disbelief in someone like me who has recently returned for a second visit to shop, eat the best pesto on the planet and enjoy the beauty of marvelous towns clinging to a hillside.  Worse yet is that lives have been lost or are missing as a result of the violent effect of the storm.

I know I speak for anyone who has ever set foot in this enchanting area of Italy when I say that it is heart wrenching to see the Cinque Terre brought to its knees. What was once a chain of sleepy fishermen villages connected by the sea or by winding coastal footpaths had only just begun to flourish from international tourism and strengthen its economy. Now one of Italy’s most beautiful spots—and Italy is known for her beautiful spots—must recon with the rage of what makes it so special: the picturesque hillside that not so gently sweeps toward the sea.

The sea at Vernazza April 2011
In the days to come fingers will be pointed, most likely at the government for not providing adequate river banks and sustaining walls, but 
what is more unfortunate is that Italy isn't known to be quick at providing financial aid for cleanup and following through to get people and businesses back on their feet. They try, but bureaucracy doesn't run at the same speed as the desperation that strikes the family shoveling mud out the window of their second floor apartment or the restaurant owner who has just closed a remarkable season but will hardly be able to cover the cost of replacing everything.


I have never used my blog to promote the collection of funds, but my time in Italy has taught me that the government may not be capable or able to see these towns through their difficulties. So, I am going to provide a link to "Un Aiuto  
Main seaside Piazza in Vernazza April 2011

Subito. Alluvione Levante Ligure e Lunigiana...Immediate Help. Floods in Levante Ligure and Lunigiana"

The link was set up by Corriere della Sera, an Italian national newspaper and Tg7, a national news channel. There is a bank account number and a cellphone number (Send a blank text message to 45500). Every Euro helps…so please pitch in and spread the word.

For those donating from Italy: Conto Corrente IT80O30690506110000 0000567 Reference: «Un aiuto subito. Alluvione Levante ligure e Lunigiana» presso Banca Intesa Sanpaolo, filiale di Roma, viale Lina Cavalieri 236
http://www.corriere.it/cronache/11_ottobre_26/raccolta-fondi-alluvione-corriere-la7_20182ee8-000f-11e1-9c44-5417ae399559.shtml or from an Italian cellphone or landline send an SMS text message to 45500. Two euro will be donated to the fund with each message. Please spread the word!
  
The photos on this page were taken in Vernazza during my trip in April 2011. Links below will give you an idea of what Vernazza looked like two days ago.

Photos of Vernazza during the flood: http://genova.repubblica.it/cronaca/2011/10/25/foto/la_piena_a_vernazza-23864896/1/

 Photos of the situation http://www.corriere.it/gallery/cronache/10-2011/maltempo/1/maltempo-liguria_8a81c316-ff33-11e0-b55a-a662e85c9dff.shtml#1 

The edge of Vernazza meeting the sea


Monday, October 17, 2011

A mix of Southern and Northern Italy--Matera: a Town of Stone & Gondolas: the symbol of Venice

Well I'm back from Matera, Italy and the Women's Fiction Festival. What an experience!


View from my hotel "Hotel in Pietra" in the Sassi area of Matera, Italy
 I came away from the magical "stone" city after having met, mingled with and befriended authors, agents and editors from across the globe. One of my favorite events was a fabulous brainstorming session with fellow writers which helped push me over a hurdle and reinforce an idea I was pondering. Since my return I've been polishing up my manuscript and getting it ready to send off to the literary agents and editors that liked my pitch. I couldn't ask for more.


 I'll still be checking in here from time to time, but most of my writing time in the next few weeks will be dedicated to my manuscript. It's an exciting moment and I feel fortunate that someone might just want to work with me and put Beneath the Lion's Wings on the road to publishing. There's a lot to do before that, so continue to send me good thoughts, and who knows it just might happen.

In the meantime here are a few photos taken in Matera and a link to a charming piece by Seth Doane from CBS Morning News...Gondolas: the symbol of Venice. The gondolier, Pierluigi Pila, is a close colleague of my husband's...he's also a huge fan of anything American. A presto!http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7384866n&utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%253A+CBSNewsVideo+%2528News+Video%253A+CBSNews.com%2529

  
Morning walk through Matera

Matera by night


Monday, September 19, 2011

Feeling so guilty...yet so lucky!

GUILTY! I'm feeling so very guilty.

It's not that I've wanted to neglect my blog and I especially don't want to neglect those of you who are so kind to stop by and leave the comments I enjoy reading. But the last few weeks have been filled with a much needed, fabulous vacation in Sicily, and dedicating pretty much all the rest of my time to preparing for the Women's Fiction Festival in Matera, Italy.

I believe I've mentioned that I've written a women's contemporary fiction. As of today it's entitled Beneath the Lion's Wings, and I'm in the process of  looking for a literary agent who will love my story as much as I do. So my adventure to find that person is taking me to Matera at the end of September. Attending the festival will bring me face to face with writers, literary agents and editors from around the world. Am I excited, nervous, curious? Yes, all three! 

This a snapshot of what you can expect from Beneath the Lion's Wings:

                            There’s a miracle in falling in love…and then there’s the truth.

Keep your fingers crossed, and wish me an enormous in bocca al lupo, (which means in the mouth of the wolf; Italy's way of saying break a leg). If nothing else it will be a learning experience, and I plan on coming away with loads of information that will put me on the path to getting published. Stay tuned, drop by often and I will bring you news and tales of my trip to Matera, one of Italy's most magical cities. 

In the meantime enjoy a few of the photos I took on vacation, and see for yourself why I fell in love with Sicily!



La Grotta Azzurra--The Blue Grotta, Taormina


Nature's shade of blue



View of the North Eastern Coast of Sicily looking toward Taormina
 

One of the most elegant piazzas in Italy. Ortigia, Siracusa



Me at Castello Maniace, Ortigia, Sircusa
 


Fichi d'India-Prickly Pear Cactus and fruit
 

Stairway to upper level of Castello Maniace, Ortigia Siracusa



My favorite Sicilian city so far-Noto, Siracusa
 

 The bay at Isola Bella up-close and personal



View of Mount Etna fuming from the heart of the Teatro Antico in Taormina
 

A street in Taormina


The Beach


View from hotel terrace and traditional Sicilian ceramic busts


Thursday, August 18, 2011

Venetian Gondolier to Sail the Atlantic...all Baimaiself...all by myself!

In the more than two decades that I have lived in Venice I have met many Venetian men and women who are passionate about boats and the sports surrounding them. Yet none have impressed me as much nor do I consider them to be as daring and determined as 35 year old gondolier by profession and sailor by heart Tommaso Luppi. 

Tommaso Luppi aboard Baimaiself

When being greeted by his sincere handshake and warm smile what one quickly notices about Tommaso is that his eyes are as blue as the Atlantic Ocean; that vast body of water he is set to sail across this November—all alone. The vessel he will command on the 23-25 day journey from the Canary Islands which sit off the Northwestern coast of Africa to the island of Martinique in the Caribbean Sea is a 32 foot Moana sailboat appropriately named Baimaiself…the Italianized pronunciation of by myself.
The moment I heard about Tommaso’s adventure the romantic impulses in my brain bounced around images of a young, contemporary Venetian gondolier bewitched by desire to raise the sails to the wind and call upon experience and an inborn sense of adventure to challenge and conquer the second largest ocean on earth while succumbing to the same passion that had possessed his fellow countrymen Marco Polo and Christopher Columbus. But the logical side of my brain battled with those thoughts and wondered: Why? What pulls a man to want to accomplish such a treacherous feat alone? I had to meet Tommaso and get some answers.
Then on a warm summer evening Tommaso, his lovely wife Sara and their charming eight-year-old daughter Matilde—one-year-old Camilla stayed home with I nonni—joined my husband and I for dinner at a bustling pizzeria in Campo San Polo. Between bites of bubbling hot pizza and above the sound of Robert De Niro’s voice booming from the nearby cinema all’ aperto, Tommaso calmed my curiosity with his deep sense of serenity and reflection, proving he has left no stone unturned in preparation and thought for his journey. This is what he so kindly revealed to me so I in turn could share it with you:

       Marie:  How long have you been a gondolier, and how long have you been sailing?
        Tommaso:  I’ve been sailing since 1994, and working as a gondolier since 1999. Becoming a gondolier seemed logical to me because it intertwines with my passion for the sea.

        Marie:  A gondolier mans and masters his own boat, is it the same for you when sailing?
        Tommaso:  A gondolier rows a gondola alone however we are always surrounded by tourists, colleagues and friends, while at sea it’s different. Out there you are all alone and the sense of freedom one feels is incredible; there’s a sensation of being part of nature, and maybe one can say that primitive senses emerge. I think these same emotions are impossible to experience in situations we face in our everyday lives.

Marie:  Why make the journey alone?
Tommaso:  Simply because I have always imagined and dreamt about making my first “crossing”   alone; it’s hard to explain but it’s something I feel deep down inside.

Marie:  Have you made other journeys alone?
Tommaso:  Yes. My very first journey alone was in 1994, the same year I began sailing. I crossed the Adriatic Sea from Venice to Rovigno, Croatia.  At the time I was sailing my first boat which was 5.5 meters, approximately 18 feet. Since then I’ve transported boats for work or for friends, often taking them to various sites for regattas enabling the crew to arrive rested and ready for their race.

Marie: Why have you chosen to follow in the “footsteps” of Christopher Columbus one of Italy’s most famous sons?
Tommaso:  Navigating across the Atlantic by sailboat and following the route of Christopher Columbus is every sailor’s dream. At least it’s been mine since I was a child. Columbus’s voyage has always fascinated me and I’ve imagined myself onboard his caravel. However, it must be said that the route the Admiral followed is the most logical because it taps into the Alisei or the East North East trade winds. For centuries these trade winds have accompanied sailing ships on Atlantic crossings between the months of November and January.

Marie:  Where and when will you begin your journey?
Tommaso: My departure is scheduled for September 1, 2011 from Gibraltar where Baimaiself is now docked. From there I’ll head to the Canary Islands assisted by the Portuguese Alisei—trade winds—which blow in that period. Then, on November 16, 2011, I’ll set sail from Gran Canaria and after 24 days and approximately 3000 miles of nothing but ocean I’ll arrive in the Caribbean island of Martinique where my wife and two daughters will be waiting.

Marie:  What is your favorite part of sailing the seas alone?
        Tommaso:  Other than the beauty and magic of watching your boat navigate day after day and being able to feel that you are one with nature, it’s also an internal journey.  Perhaps it’s a quest for something ancient that everyday life keeps from us. But more than anything else sailing alone is freedom without borders; living by instinct.

Marie:  Why are you ready now, at this time in your life, to make this journey?
Tommaso:  I’ve prepared each and every boat that I’ve ever had with the idea of making a transatlantic crossing, but often they turned out to be insufficient for such an endeavor, therefore I had to start over. I’ve also had other priorities in my life like my home, my children and various unforeseen situations, and there has always been a lack of funds. So here I am today ready to realize my dream, even though I believe with the proper boat I would have been able to attempt this undertaking as far back as 1994.

Marie: Beside your passion for boats and sailing what other aspects of life have prepared you to take on such an arduous journey?
Tommaso:  I believe, other than my own technical preparation and that of the boat, in order to be able to cross the ocean alone on a journey that you have planned without any assistance you need a great amount of internal motivation which goes far beyond any other sort of technical preparation. I truly believe certain qualities needed to face this type of challenge either are or are not a part of a person’s character.

Marie:  How will you stay in contact with land/family while on your journey? And how will the boat be navigated when you sleep?
Tommaso:  Thanks to modern technology, unlike sailors of another time, I have a satellite telephone which if necessary will permit me to call from any part of the world. I plan to keep my Facebook page up to date so I can communicate with friends about my progress with the crossing, and again thanks to satellites whoever may want to can send me a free text message to my onboard telephone; something that is always a pleasure to receive and is also very encouraging. And the boat will be controlled by Mustafà, who isn’t a stowaway, but a marvelous and simple wind rudder; in other words a steering mechanism that permits you to maintain the route with respect to the wind angle. So if I’m going west and the wind comes from the north, by regulating Mustafà in the direction of the wind he makes the boat go west. In any event, when you navigate alone there’s not a lot of time to sleep. So I’ll be taking short 15 minute naps within brief but repeated intervals because 15 minutes is the length of time that a ship which is out of sight can appear over the horizon and still allow time for any needed maneuvers.

Marie:  What thoughts do you expect will go through your mind when you see the island of Martinique?
Tommaso:  That’s a good question! I imagine when I arrive and see the Caribbean I won’t only realize that I have crossed the Atlantic and accomplished my endeavor, but it will be the end of a dream that has continued for 17 years. At the moment I can’t give a clearer answer. I think it’s something that has to be lived, but I’ll be happy to let you know when I arrive!  

Marie:  As a good hearty eating gondolier, what food/drink will you not go without while on your journey?
Tommaso:  Without a doubt I’ll have lots and lots of pasta, which of course is my favorite dish! But I must confess I’m not a great cook, so I’ll also use some freeze dried foods especially when there are sea swells. And I’ll certainly supplement my diet with freshly fished seafood.

Marie: What are your sailing plans after the Caribbean, onto other harbors?
Tommaso with daughter Matilde
Tommaso:  My wife and two daughters will be waiting for me and we will sail around the Caribbean for about two months, reaching each and every island. Then my boat will be shipped back to Genoa, Italy where I’ll circumnavigate all of Italy trying to touch each region and principal city until I reach Venice and St. Mark’s square, where friends and family will be waiting to celebrate.

Marie:  Do you have sponsors, and are you looking for more?
Tommaso: Up to now I have a few sponsors who have assisted me in purchasing supplies, but I’m looking for others to help me bring Baimaiself back to Italy. All sponsors will have their logo on the boat for the entire voyage and until she is safe in harbor back in Venice.

In closing I want to send my best wishes to Tommaso for a safe voyage and thank him for letting me feature his adventure on my blog. I invite you all to join me right here over the next few months as I bring you up to date on his Atlantic crossing.

And I am honored to add Italy to Los Angeles and Back www.italytolosangelesandback.blogspot.com to the following list of sponsors:


You, too, can sponsor Tommaso Luppi’s transatlantic adventure
Follow him on
at http://www.baimaiself.com/
And watch him on YouTube






Baimaiself
 











Sunday, July 17, 2011

Il Redentore...a night you might want to add to your bucket list.


I don’t want to make this post about the history of La Festa del Redentore—the Feast of the Redeemer—other than to say that it is a deeply felt Venetian holiday held every year on the third Saturday & Sunday in July to commemorate the end of a terrible plague in 1576. For more you can click on the Wikipedia link at the end of the post. Instead, I’m going to attempt to retrace my magical evening and bring you along.

Il Redentore 2011 a View from "Maria"
It all began when I found out that my husband—many of you have learned through my blog that he is a gondolier—wasn’t scheduled to work this year on the night of Il Redentore. I quickly—and not so subtly—began to hint: Amore…wouldn’t it be nice to go see the fireworks in the gondola? Mind you we have done this many times in the past, but since his work schedule must take precedence I haven’t witnessed this spectacular show for at least four, or maybe even five years now.  Being in the midst of his very busy season and not particularly anxious to battle a crowd of one or two-hundred thousand people on his day off, he hemmed and hawed before conceding with a shrug of his shoulders and a proclamation of happy wife, happy life.

Reflecting Redentore
Our evening was blessed right from the start: The rain clouds that had been hovering above in the late afternoon had gone elsewhere and left us with a balmy summer evening; a rarity in a town where high humidity commands the weather front. We took the short train ride from our countryside neighborhood to the Santa Lucia train station in Venice, and were accompanied by two dear friends who were excited to see Maria moored just a bridge away from the station. In order to avoid the crowds my husband had made a special trip to town in the morning, yes on his day off, to row his beloved gondola from the traghetto in St. Mark’s square and leave her at the traghetto in front of the train station; making it easy for my lady-friend and I to step off the train in high-heeled sandals that we would normally avoid wearing to Venice, but were happy to slip on knowing we only had to take a few steps to our gondola.

The Grand Canal was bustling with activity: Vaporetti, water-taxis, gondolas and private motor boats splashed by and were filled to the brim with spectators headed to find their space among the crowd in the Piazza or along the St. Mark’s basin waterway. But another three hours would have to pass before the fireworks began, and we had a dinner detour to make.

We left the Grand Canal and turned down the lesser travelled labyrinth of inner waterways that crisscross the Canareggio neighborhood. After a couple of twists and turns and lots of oohing and awing at sights one only seems to discover from the angle of a gondola we approached my favorite restaurant in town: Osteria L’Orto dei Mori—the Moors’ Vegetable Garden Inn. Micael, partner-owner and highly qualified sommelier, greeted us canal side, but before escorting us to our linen clothed table in the middle of Campo dei Mori he jumped onto his nearby docked motorboat and tossed a couple of rubber boat fenders to my husband to tie along the side of Maria to protect her from the rugged marble and stone foundation. That done we followed Micael into the quiet neighborhood campo named for four 13th century statues. The Moors (though some historians say their dress is Greek) stand guard on the sides and corner of the building that is now the home of this fine osteria and which just so happens to abut an even more famous building; the Venetian Renaissance—16th century—painter Jacopo Comin’s former residence, commonly known as Tintoretto’s home. Though Venice is an open-air museum it still surprises me when I find three hundred years of history within a few square meters!

Once seated at our table, and while sipping our aperitivo of prosecco—the elegance of the evening called for us to stray from Spritz and turn to the bubbly—we listened as Micael made suggestions and began to serve delicate plate after plate of appetizers, pasta, gnocchi and fresh seafood; all prepared by Lorenzo, founding partner and co-owner of L’Orto dei Mori, whom I consider to be one of the finest chefs in Venice. Again, I won’t go into detail about their exquisite and well prepared menu, but please trust me; you should certainly try this fine restaurant on your next trip to Venice.  

Light in the Lagoon
The good company, fine food, and in all honesty a little too much wine, made us lose track of the time. So when we realized that within minutes the fireworks would begin we jumped back in the gondola and headed toward St. Mark’s square.

My husband was making good time when we entered the Grand Canal, only this time we were the only ones there. Now for those who have never been to Venice, this might be a bit difficult to imagine and I’ll try to do the scene justice; for those who have visited Venice you understand what a rare experience this is. There were no vaporetti, motor boats or water-taxis making waves, or noise, there wasn’t even another gondola; just Maria quietly slicing through the reflection of grand palaces. We were all alone, and had one of the most beautiful spots in the world all to ourselves. It was a magical moment and we realized, right then and there, that we were living an unrepeatable experience.  

Then boom! Our attention was jolted from the surreal surroundings and up toward the sky where just beyond the Rialto Bridge flashes of red, white and green towered above Venice in a tribute to Italy’s 150th anniversary of unification; the show had begun. My husband rowed faster and soon Maria was slipping beneath the Bridge of Sighs and out into St. Mark’s basin where we joined thousands of others by tilting our heads up to admire the splendor of Venice silhouetted by a glittering display of light.  


Osteria L’Orto dei Mori: http://www.osteriaortodeimori.com/

Monday, July 11, 2011

You know it's summertime in Italy when...

      ….you stroll into a sunbaked campo and spot a group of gray-haired women sitting in the shade snapping the tips off freshly picked string beans and listening to the sound of Enrico Caruso billow through the curtains of a nearby window.

….after dinner your neighborhood gelateria has a blockbuster-like line out the front door.

….colorful preprinted fill-in-the-date cards with the words Chiuso per Ferie da….a…. (Closed for Vacation from….to…..) pop-up in storefront windows all across town.

….big-rig trucks disappear from the autostrada and cruise ships appear at the port.

….clusters of green fruit drip from the vine patiently waiting to be sweetened into red or gold.

….the fresh basil in your garden begs to become pesto.  

….even those who have never heard of pilates, yoga or Technogym brave their bathing suits and enjoy the sun, sand ‘n sea.

….the real definition for hot fashion strays from Paris Hilton’s use of the word and goes back to the classic linen sundress, an elegant handheld fan and a broad-brimmed straw hat.

….the locals leave the cities to the tourists and head to their beach or mountain homes.

….you gladly share the name of your favorite restaurant in town and make a list of things-to-do for vacationing family and friends because you want them to love the magic of Italy as much as you do!

Monday, July 4, 2011

Top Ten Reasons to Celebrate Independence Day in Italy!

1.      You make grandma’s famous potato salad and no one scolds you for using mayonnaise instead of olive oil.

2.      You give a little history lesson to your neighbor after he sees you putting up the American flag and asks if the U.S. is playing Italy in a soccer match.

3.      Your Italian friends concede when you say “as a republic my country is older than yours”.

4.      You finally find some use for all those little American-flag toothpicks you bought on your last trip home.

5.      You pick up a six-pack of Budweiser instead of the more fashionable Peroni just because it’s Made in the U.S.A.

6.      You convince your local greengrocer that corn was meant to be eaten on-the-cob.

7.      You prove to your Italian friends that hamburgers and hot dogs can be yummy slow-food, too!

8.      No one dares to argue when you turn-up the volume on Springsteen’s Born in the U.S.A.!

9.      Your Italian friends make you smile with a Happy 4th of July greeting sent via Facebook

10.   Because you’re proud to be an American even if you live abroad!

Happy 4th of July!!!
Take a moment and go to the right side of my blog to “LIKE” Italy to Los Angeles and Back on Facebook and follow me here and on Twitter
Thank you!